One of the most important selling points for a Major Metropolitan Daily Newspaper is that the journalists writing articles are some of the most knowledgeable, informed and well-connected experts on any given subject they tackle. Unfortunately, this is rarely the case when it comes to The Kansas City Star.
To wit . . .
COMPLAINTS FROM KANSAS CITY RESTAURATEURS ARE GROWING LOUDER REGARDING THE ROTATING CREW OF HACKS SENT TO REVIEW LOCAL FINE DINNING ESTABLISHMENTS!!!
Allow me to provide an example . . .
Tim Finn's recent review of Succotash is reportedly being touted as one of many indicators that The Star's food review offerings are rotten. Here at TKC we know that Finn really only has expertise when it comes to sloppy seconds . . . . But because I'm a big supporter of all things related to local business I think that local restaurant dudes have a point when they note that lack of quality coverage.
Notice Finn's sparse use of adjectives which are the stock and trade of foodies. He uses the word "dandy" not once but twice to describe the fare. Also, Finn breaks a cardinal rule of food reviews and makes contact with the proprietor in order to dig up a few minor details . . . To be fair, he might have done this after the review was complete but the point here is that his write-up reads like one of his crappy music reviews and not something that would keep readers well informed on their culinary options.
"The Star keeps rotating these reviewers and offering assignments to whoever volunteers. These people just don't know what they're talking about," says one denizen of the KC upscale restaurant scene.
Instead of relevant information the word around local restaurants is that the wide range of Star reviewers are now infamous for touting their temporary reviewing gig making the opportunity more about schmoozing than any sort of analysis. In the grand scheme of things it doesn't really make a difference because local upscale dining isn't something that should require a lot of attention. However, the fact that there's yet another area where The Star's integrity is suffering might be a cause for concern. Personally, I've been living off of corn dogs and Doritos for the past three days so my palate isn't delicate enough to have an informed opinion on overpriced food offerings.
Still, any denizen of the blogosphere will note that foodies like . . .
KC Lunch Spots - Yet another white guy know-it-all who can offer informative lessons in ordering off menu.
Hot Blog On A Stick - Home to this town's newest, latest beloved foodie Chimpotle.
These guys regularly offer content that's far more captivating than any recent Star food review. Sadly, Internet dorks don't have the cash to consistently rate and write about big money local places . . . THEREFORE TKC HAS A SOLUTION!!!
In this rare instance I have a realistic suggestion for the best way The Star should proceed. It's simple:
Hire Charles Ferruzza FULL TIME!!!
His pay was cut at The Pitch but his reviews are easily the most entertaining thing in the "alternative" rag every week. Stealing Ferruzza away would be the wisest thing the daily rag could do in order to turn at least one of their sections into something more significant than a bad joke . . . In fact, anything short of hiring a talented dude like Ferruzza would be a signal that the daily paper wants nothing more than this town to continue swallowing their tripe without any complaints.
He is good.
ReplyDeleteI don't see how you're getting the "he talked to her before the review came out, thing" as a conflict. plenty of people are nosey like i am and ask the owner questions. there is also this disclosure:
ReplyDelete"MY DINNER AT is a story about a single dining experience. The narrative is based on an anonymous visit. The Star pays for the meal."
The things I think that do require noting are responses to his text:
"…the Hospital Hill neighborhood."
Is there a HH neighborhood? It's HH itself, and no one really lives there — they are patients and medical care pros. The nearby neighborhoods have other names.
I think that Succotash had not that great service or food in former location, where both al Habashi and Hien Vuong restaurants (and Blue Nile and possibly Bo Ling's, Cascone's, Minsky's and everyone but Dos Hombres, and the brewery) seem to do fine.
The reviewer mentions, "the gaudy chandelier."
I add that it is horrible. A friend seems to like it, but it's hot pink and of an ugly design. It attracts attention, indeed, the kind that likes tackiness or the way the doorframe is cobbled together out of sawed up decorative wood, possibly from some old mantle. There's nothing logical about saying that the building itself should attract attention, however; it looks pretty much the same as it did while empty for 3 years. Nothing remarkable, outside of the pink fixture and the totem thing on the sidewalk, is different.
"Some of the artwork is notable. The tin sculpture over the bar of two turtle doves flanking a Cadillac hubcap; the painting of a car on fire, in silhouette; and, above the banquette, the gargantuan portrait of a woman eating blood-red tomato soup, spilling some of it down her chin."
it's so notable, in fact, that we don't get artists' names. I venture that the latter's is Jaimie Warren.
"… still had to straighten myself up a bit so the table didn’t feel too high."
I see nothing wrong with good posture. Not a really valid "complaint," saying the seat was too plush. Also, plushness implies sinking down, not being boosted up too high, so I'm a little confused.
He does say "dandy" twice and in close proximity. About food. Sigh.
To his credit, he describes most of the food as huge. Yes, it's overdone there, and I have found the fresh ingredients to end up bland-tasting.
Obviously, I have opinions (and issues). I haven't gone into my main problem with them : )
Even a blind squirrel kicks over an acorn now and again: You are right on this one Tony. It's exactly what the Star did many years ago, when they hired Dan Margolies away from the Business Journal.
ReplyDeleteI used to think Ferruzza was the worst it could get until reading Finn's "review".
ReplyDeleteyou're right on this one, Tony. Charles Ferruzza is the best thing in town when it comes to restaurant reviews.
ReplyDeleteMo Rage
"The Star keeps rotating these reviewers and offering assignments to whoever volunteers. These people just don't know what they're talking about," [b]said Hearne.[/b]
ReplyDeleteFerruzza's writing is as one-dimensional as the meals he reviews.
Say what you will about Charles, here is one indisputable fact: he is eminently readable. He is entertaining and he can tell a helluva story. It's not just about food, it is social history, it is theater and it is entertainment. Only Ferruzza can pull that off and I might add: consistently. The Star should hire him.
ReplyDeleteI have to laugh about restaurants complaining about the Star's restaurant reviewers or lack thereof. Do they really think their problem (lack of publicity) will end if the Star hires someone they approve of?
ReplyDeleteRESTAURANTS---In case you haven't noticed, NO ONE reads the Star. Circulation is way down, the website sucks, ad revenue has dried up. You'd be better off starting your own Restaurant Newspaper and hiring Charlie yourself.
Of course the Star could hire a reviewer who might rip a few new assholes of some of the over rated hash houses of this town. That might be worth reading.
"Check Please, KC" is on KCPT (Channel 19) - usually on Thursdays, usually repeats during the week.
ReplyDeleteThe host is EXCELLENT at getting real-life experiences out of three guests, each of whom has visited the restaurants the other two guests picked for that week's show.
Check it out.
It's amazing how many words can be used in an attempt to 'dis a local dead tree media rag. I thought you said they were dead? I guess you are just one of the millions of idiot bloggers who's words don't quite match up with their actions.
ReplyDeleteFerruzza is o.k. but if the only writing job he can get is with The Pitch, then maybe he's not as good as some say.
FYI...The Pitch has lost about half its page count since '08 and seems to drop about 2 pages a week, including Ferruzza's "My Big Fat Mouth" column, which disappeared last year.
Doug Frost is a very personable host on Check Please!, but his guests are for the most part a bunch of suburban doofuses', but on their recommendation I'm going to go have crappy pizza at that crappy pizza joint in Riverside. Mmmm.
No body reads the Star sowho cares what the critic says.
ReplyDeleteSpeaking of sloppy seconds, dickhead, did the anal lashing you took after attacking Finn's dating habits the last time teach you nothing?
ReplyDeleteThanks Tony, I'm pretty much in agreement about much of what you said. Ferruzza is great and I read everything he writes, but this town needs a true fine dining reviewer who can talk knowledgeably about our local restaurants. There are plenty of white guys with opinions based on one visit (guilty as charged).
ReplyDelete